Officina Gastronomica Italiana – triple threat ★★★★

Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews based on organized events. Time Out covers the bill for restaurant and bar reviews so readers can trust our criticism.

In a city where many restaurants lean toward elaborate aesthetics and trendy branding, this fine new restaurant serves patients the old-fashioned way. Think homemade Italian with big portions, no pretense, and of course, carbs on carbs on carbs.

Officina Gastronomica Italiana (or simply Officina), located in Prahran but, crucially, on Malvern Road rather than bustling Chapel Street, exudes rustic charm, humility and screams ‘local favourites’.

Owner Claudio Casoni used to run espresso bar Officine Zero, but after taking over the shop next door he opened Officina. Not only has it doubled in size, but the volume of offerings has also doubled. If Officine Zero was a daytime café, Officina is a triple threat, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

After scouring the menu online to decide which dish would best showcase Officina’s strengths, I settled on dinner (pasta is best eaten before bed). Although the evening is sunny, the temperature has not yet risen, so it is still cool. As a result, I’m grateful we’re sitting inside, even though Officina boasts one of Melbourne’s best courtyards.

Behind the counter, I notice deli meats juxtaposed with giant pieces of golden focaccia. There is also a wide selection of wines, pantry items and sandwiches available to take away.

Starting with sass, the OGI Spritz combines elderflower liqueur and pet ($22) with the classic Limoncello Spritz ($22). Both drinks are boozy and refreshing, and I can only imagine the joy of sipping on one of these bad boys in the backyard during the summer.

The focaccia ($7) is baked fresh daily and includes basil-infused EVOO for dipping. It’s fluffy and soft, but I wish the crust was crispier. The fried squid appetizer ($24) looks very light, but the batter pairs well with the tender meat, and with a healthy squeeze of lemon and mayonnaise, any fear of anemic batter is forgotten.

Vitello tonnato ($24) is a childhood favorite and I… excited to see it on the menu. I know looks aren’t everything, but I gasp out loud when it lands on the table. Pink veal, capers and pickled celery on a bed of tuna and mayonnaise create a stunning contrast of flavors and textures. It is creamy, with a hint of acidity that gives it brightness and fullness. This is a stylish, modern interpretation of a dish that needs to be seen more often.

Besides the food, Officinas’ signature feature is its excellent wine list. It is comprehensive, mainly from the Emilia-Romagna region. My glass of Fattoria San Lorenzo Le Oche ($18) is floral and balanced, and with Italian music blaring from the speakers, I feel like my European summer has arrived early.

Apart from pasta, the mains are limited. There’s whole flounder ($54), Gippsland beef tagliata ($65) and eggplant parm ($34). We decide to take the last course and focus all our energy on the pasta, and oh boy am I glad we did.

The entrees are nice, but if there’s one thing you get at Officina, it’s the pasta. Rigatoni with slow-simmered Wagyu beef ragu and pecorino sardo ($38) are rich, savory and very filling. The pasta is chewy and topped with the perfect ratio of glossy tomato sauce and tender meat.

Cacio e pepe ($34) is another standout option. Tagliolini noodles are beautifully coated in a tangy cheese sauce and add a nutty, decadent flavor to the dish. These pastes are not pretentious; they’re hearty, satisfying, and best enjoyed unapologetically—sauce dripping down your chin and all.

Finishing with a glass of tiramisu ($12), I think it might be illegal to end an Italian meal any other way. It hits all the right notes.

Officina takes hospitality more seriously than the sultry pasta bars that have been popping up around the city lately. While many new establishments strive to create a moody, hip atmosphere, Officina has a genuine warmth and authenticity.

Is there better Italian food in Melbourne? Yes. But not by much and not necessarily with the same sincerity. Officina is where you go when you want to prioritize a happy stomach over flashy gimmicks because, after all, that’s what it’s all about.