Three new bakery stores in Sydney, October 2024

Sydney has no shortage of excellent baked goods and excellent coffee. But newcomers are also joining the reg, and many of them are equally outstanding. Here are three to put on your bucket list right now.

Shadow Baking Pop-Up Van, Marrickville

When the pastry chef, sous chef and former executive chef of Messina Eats joined forces to open a permanent digs for their market stall Shadow Baking – right next door to Messina in Darlo – locals sat up and took notice. Vegemite Scrolls with Fermented Chili Egg Jam! A stunning hybrid of croissant, custard and pie! All winners.

Now, after launching a pop-up van for Vivid, they have moved it to the car park of the headquarters in Messina. “We had to call it a drive-thru,” says Tom Mitchell, co-owner and pastry chef of Messina. Leaflet. “People kind of drive in, load up and leave.”

Sydneysiders can order all the usual Shadow Baking dishes – that custard Danish that’s “always on fire” – at the window, but the team are also serving up savory tarte flambés exclusive to Marrickville. They are best enjoyed fresh at one of the milk crate tables.

It’s a cheesy classic with speckles and creme fraiche, plus two numbers that look like pizza pockets. One is generously stuffed with Whole Beast pastrami, zesty sauerkraut, house-made pickles and Russian dressing, while the other is eggplant parm. They all brown quickly in Gozney.

When will he leave? The team calls this a “persistent pop-up.” “We’ll be here until we get blown away,” Mitchell laughs.

1 Rich Street, Marrickville
Weekends from 10:00 to 16:00.

@shadow_baking

Atelier Arta, Camden

Arta Atelier, run by husband and wife duo Armin and Tayla Begovic, is a “beautiful patisserie” on a suburban street. The charming detached house, surrounded by heritage-listed houses and a tennis court, creates the small town atmosphere the Begovic’s were hoping for. Armin is a chef with over ten years of experience in kitchens such as Rockpool, Aria and Alexandria Lands; and Tayla is a professional in venue management.

Take home Armin’s glossy cakes or Armin’s artful choux buns – but be warned, the flavors are here for a good time, not to last. “We really wanted to be a seasonal store with a very limited selection based on quality and the best products at the time,” Armin tells Broadsheet. “I didn’t want to sell it because we only had one product for the whole year.”

Blueberries are all the rage, which means blueberry cheesecakes are too pretty to eat. Cutting through the blue ombre dome reveals a blueberry financier (an almond-based cake) topped with a cloud of baked cheesecake mousse with a gooey blueberry compote at the center. The cake is then airbrushed with colored cocoa butter and finished off with a chocolate ring.

You can order birthday cakes for pickup, as well as pies and sausage rolls. Plus Armin is perfecting something else: bureks. “I grew up on burek. But it took about four months to fix everything. I called my grandmother and asked, but the way she explained it to me didn’t make any sense.”

The Eastern European pastry features spinach, beef and cheese fillings, and the Arta is Armin’s interpretation of a family recipe.

7/1-15 Murray Street, Camden
From Wednesday to Friday from 7:00 to 15:30.
Saturday: 8:00–15:30.
Sun 8:00–14:00

@arta.atelier.au
artaatelier.com.au

Also, Roseberry

Strawberry matcha is having a moment, and this cafe in Roseberry is dedicated to it. Taking it one step further, the team has unveiled what is believed to be Sydney’s first strawberry matcha tap, cracking the code on the virality of the two-tone iced latte.

“It’s a little nostalgic, it’s like a grown-up version of strawberry milk without looking like you’re just getting strawberry milk,” says owner Jerome Manion, who is also behind Shire’s Our Father. Leaflet.

Aren’t you mad at matcha? The team also pours Single O’s bad coffee and pastries from Butterboy.

There’s also a strong play on toast and bagels. Choose from a three-cheese toastie with hot honey or a Brooklyn Boy bagel stuffed with Wagyu pastrami, pickles, Swiss cheese and special sauce.

The menu may be small, but it will leave you wanting more.

2/77 Dunning Avenue, Rosebery
Monday to Friday from 6:30 to 15:00.

@more.rosebery
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