Open: Southside’s Sibling Dumpling Bar Central is a moody new spot for Hong Kong-style dining.

The name Central is true in two respects. Now open in the Piccadilly Arcade building on Queen Street in Brisbane’s CBD, this 80-seat underground restaurant is truly central to the River City. The name of the establishment is also inspired by the central district of Hong Kong, as are its menu and dishes.

Eat at Southside Fish Lane’s in South Brisbane or Rick Shores in Burleigh Heads on the Gold Coast and you’ll likely eat a serving of dumplings with your meal. Some include lobster and shrimp. Some are stuffed with truffle pork or chilli crab. The bite-sized favorite is a staple at both restaurants, but it’s not the main attraction at either. For a place with such a focus and a great love for Hong Kong, the team behind two beloved restaurants launched Central.

Southside chef Benny Lam, one of the driving forces behind Central along with Southside general manager Maui Manu and co-owner David Flynn, has worked at the beloved tourist spot and is now bringing some of the parts he loves to Brisbane.

“Food. Lifestyle. Sometimes I miss it. The hustle and bustle can be so intense in this city, but I really enjoyed that energy every day,” Lam explained when Central was first announced in September.

“When it comes to Hong Kong, you eat out almost every night of the week. Maybe you leave the office around 7 pm but don’t go home. You go to a dumpling bar or a noodle restaurant – that’s the third place. “

“You’re walking around and exploring and there’s stuff going on everywhere and it draws you in,” Flynn adds. “We want Central to be the sensory experience we love about Hong Kong, but brought to Brisbane, bringing together the two cities we love.”

If Central becomes that destination for Brisbane, the couple will be happy. The menu plays its part, with the main focus being on the dim sum range. Peking duck potstickers and shrimp har gao are paired with mushroom dumplings, grilled pork puffs, king crab and shrimp spring rolls and more. Want to dine big? Just like serving appetizers, if you’re looking elsewhere, Central can accommodate that.

Other Central dishes that combine Cantonese cuisine with Western influences include lobster noodles and shareable wagyu short ribs; drunken chicken with aged Shaoxing rice wine and red dates and golden sesame seeds as an appetizer; smoked foie gras with youtiao, also known as Chinese fried dough, plus Davidson plum, also for starters; and traditional steamed Queensland snapper are among the most delicious dishes. Char siu pork and roast half duck are also included, while mango pudding tops the list for dessert.

Whatever you choose – dim sum, raw platters, barbecue, sweets and more – it’s all prepared in the establishment’s elevated kitchen. After architect and designer Jared Webb of J.AR OFFICE helped renovate Gerard’s Bistro, he turned his attention to Central, where granite and wood blend seamlessly between stone walls. The lighting remains dim, as befits the restaurant’s underground dock.

Another inspiration comes from one of the space’s past appearances. Cafe Primitif called this place home in the 50s and 60s, with jazz and poetry.

“Our motto with Jared was ‘cover the cave.’ He responded by designing a space with tiered areas that allow people to have different lines of sight, with the kitchen and bar the focal point,” advises Flynn.

“It’s about capturing the spirit of Primitif, as well as the rich, colorful history of Hong Kong nightclubs in the 1970s and 80s – places like Disco Disco, that amazing nightclub that is still remembered fondly in this city.”

On the drinks side, sommelier Peter Marchand, who is also the group’s wine director, has put together a wine list of about 30 drops that can be mixed and matched with the food menu. Available in glass, half glass and bottle, it covers both Australian and international drinks, as well as wines from producers doing new and exciting things in the industry.

Cocktails nod to the Hong Kong nightclub scene as well as Primitif, including a house-made Harvey Wallbanger, a Szechuan Sidecar Martini and a Nitrogen-charged Pina Colada.

Find Central at 340 Queen Street, Brisbane – open from 5pm until late Tuesday to Saturday for dinner, and lunch from 12pm Thursday to Saturday, starting mid-November 2024. For more information, visit the establishment’s website.